Greendale North to the Cape 2017

15th May 2017

On our way north after quite a long interlude at home.  Travelled up the highway via Maryborough to our first overnight stop at Calliope River.  Met up with Neil and Chaz and enjoyed refreshments for our first night on the road.

16th May 2017

Left Calliope River and a slightly shorter day to St Lawrence and one of our favourite spots at the Rec. Grounds overlooking the wetlands. Walked, photographed the bird and plant life and enjoyed the serenity.

17th May 2017

We had heard of the big wet coming so decided to make for Sarina and a few home comforts.  Travelled via Carmila and Koumala and met up with Ian and Cherie in Sarina. The rains arrived so a rest day was declared.

20th May 2017

Finally the skies cleared and we left the Palms Caravan Park in Sarina.  A lovely park but we didn't get the chance to do anything in Sarina because of the weather. Headed through Mackay, Proserpine and Bowen to a free camp beside the highway at Guthalungra.  Nice spot and very popular.

21st May 2017.

Packed up and on the road, passing Home Hill and Ayr before dropping in at Townsville to drop off the kayak. Called in at the free camp at Balgal Beach but even though the beach is lovely, the free camp wasn't.  Amenities not nice and obviously people are there for longer than the allowed 48 hours.  Continued on to Rollingstone to a nice free camp beside the creek.  Top spot and a very enjoyable overnighter.

22nd May 2017

Left Rollingstone and made our way through Ingham to Cardwell where we planned to stay a couple of days.  Very neat and tidy town with a lovely walk along the foreshore. Went for a drive firstly to the Cardwell Lookout then to the spa pools which were a very unusual shade of blue - quite stunning. Then to Tully where we admired the big gum boot (and went to the top) and enjoyed coffee and a walk down the main street. Continued on to Mission Beach (cassowary country) but the rains set in again so cut our visit short.  Returned to Cardwell and went for a walk along the foreshore to the Coral Sea Battle memorial.  Well done Cardwell.

24th May 2017

Left Cardwell in the sunshine and headed towards Paronella Park but the rain tumbled down and we couldn't get into the caravan park and the unpowered sites weren't very inviting so decided to give it a miss this time.  Continued on to Innisfail and stopped for coffee but then continued on to Babinda to a very attractive free camp at Rotary Park.

25th May 2017

Arrived in Cairns and stayed at a park on the southern side of town close to shops.  Went shopping and did the housekeeping duties.  The next day went for a drive to the northern beaches of Machans Beach, Holloways Beach, Yorkeys Knob and Trinity Beach.  Returned to Cairns Esplanade for lunch and walked around the boardwalk and the lagoon.  Then a further excursion to the botanical gardens which were lovely and well worth another visit.  Rather noisy at the park thanks to the curlews, guinea fowls and other wildlife.

27th May 2017.

Left Cairns and followed the coastline north almost to Mossman then over the range via Julatten to Mount Molloy.  A lovely free camp at Rifle Creek Rest Area and very quiet although popular.  Created pizza for tea which we shared. Walked into the town of Mount Molloy which was a copper mining town last century.

28th May 2017

Departed the rest area on the Mulligan Development Highway via Mount Carbine, the Palmer River and to Lakeland for morning tea.  Looks like a very productive agricultural area with lots of bananas, mangoes etc. Continued on to Laura where we said goodbye to the bitumen (except for patches).  The road was quite corrugated all the way to Hann River where we again pulled up stumps at the roadhouse.  Quite ordinary camping but enjoyed a visit from Ozzie the emu.

29th May 2017

On the road again to Musgrave for morning tea.  Display of the old telegraph station and looked like nice camping there but the road was quite corrugated. Continued on the ordinary road until half way to Coen where we met the grader and the road improved all the way to Coen.  Pulled up behind the Sexchange Hotel on the green grass for a couple of nights respite.  Visited the Coen Historical House which was quite interesting and walked up the main street. Brenda and Leigh, Rodney and Tash and Brock arrived and being Leigh's birthday could be a late night.

31st May 2017

I think there were a few sore heads in the camp this morning (not ours we had an early one) but managed to get on the road reasonably early.  The road improved north of Coen to the airport but then deteriorated again to Archer River Roadhouse where morning tea was enjoyed.  We met the grader after Archer River and after the roadworks the road was quite reasonable.  We meant to stop at Moreton Telegraph Station but missed the turnoff so continued on - we will call in on the way back.  Nothing much till Bramwell Roadhouse where we found the others had decided to camp at Bramwell Station as tv coverage was available so made our way there and set up camp ready for the big game.  Enjoyed a very informative talk from the hosts at Bramwell Station which is the most northerly cattle station in Australia 200 km south of the tip running about 5000 head on 133000ha. Had a good spot to watch the action on the big TV after some enjoyable entertainment.  Russ was happy with the result!!!  Decided to leave the van here and tent it the rest of the way to the tip.

1st June 2017

Said goodbye to the van after stocking the car with what we needed for the next few days.  The road was surprisingly good and we continued on to Fruit Bat Falls which is only a couple of ks off the PDR and the OTT.  Pretty as a picture and a swim was enjoyed in the crystal clear water before heading off again to the Jardine River ferry.  Arrived at lunch time so had lunch while we waited for the ferry service to resume.  Alcohol restrictions are quite severe in the NPA area so made sure we were under the limits.  Continued on through the aboriginal settlemens of Injinoo, Umagico  and Bamaga to the campground at Loyalty Beach where we decided to set up our tent for a couple of nights.  The next day we headed to the tip through the Lockerbie rainforest - a lovely drive quite wet in places and quite a few creek crossings.  Called in at the Croc Tent for some souvenirs and advice on tracks etc.  Passed by the ruins of Pajinka Lodge at the tip which was built in the 1970's by Ansett and on their demise was taken over by the government and handed back to the aboriginals. It struggled on for a few years but a fire in the generator room caused it to cease operations.  Anything of value has been taken and the lodges are being covered over by the surrounding rain forest.  We then did the overland walk to the tip which wasn't terribly difficult and enjoyed a couple of glasses of wine and the obligatory photos even though the wind was horrendous.  Returned to the car park and went down on to Frangipani Beach as the tide had gone out.  Called in at Punsand Bay and decided we would move up there for a couple of days of R & R before setting off back south.  Saturday we decided to do a day trip to Thursday Island going over on the ferry from Seisia.  The trip over wasn't too bad even though the wind hadn't subsided and we were taken on a bus tour of the island.  Visited Green Hill Fort and its refurbished underground tunnels which house a very interesting display of the pearling, shipping and wartime history of T.I.  Great views from the top over the islands of the Torres Strait.  The islanders were celebrating Mabo day - the 25th anniversary of the court decision.   Visited the cemetery which has lots of gravestones of the Japanese pearl divers as well as a Memorial to these divers.  Also visited the Quetta Memorial Cathedral which is a memorial to the S.S. Quetta which was wrecked in 1890 and is Queensland's worst maritime disaster.  A thoroughly enjoyable day even though the weather was a little ordinary and we were most impressed with T.I.  Our trip back was quite rough with high winds and waves.  Enjoyed dinner out at the campground restaurant.

4th June 2017.

Moved over to Punsand Bay and treated ourselves to a couple of nights in a permanent tent on the waterfront.  Swam in the pool and had pizza for dinner from the restaurant.  Enjoyed our time here and just lazed around and relaxed.  A couple of heavy showers that only lasted a few minutes.  Sighted dolphins off the beach but didn't sight the resident croc.

6th June 2017.

Started heading south, back to the Croc Tent then through Bamaga and visited the DC3 wreck which crashed enroute from Archerfield to New Guinea in 1945 just short of the current Bamaga airport.  On to the Jardine River collecting our stash on the way, caught the ferry and continued to Fruit Bat Falls for another swim at this beautiful spot and a spot of lunch.  Then to Bramwell Station where our van awaited us - creature comforts again!!!

7th June 2017

A short journey down the road to the Moreton Telegraph Station which is an oasis of green grass in this dusty landscape.  Went for a walk around the campground visiting the Barrahole on the Wenlock River, Natural Bridge on Cave Creek where the water disappears underground in places, then on past the Lagoon with its lovely display of water lilies.  Went croc spotting but even though the Wenlock has the highest number of crocs of any river up here, they did not show themselves.  There is an interesting display of photos in the shop showing the difference between the wet and dry seasons.  When the Wenlock River floods, the camp ground is under a meter or more of water.  A thoroughly enjoyable stay and a highly recommended campground.  Met two walkers here who are walking from the tip of Cape York to the bottom of Tasmania taking 8 months!!!

8th June 2017

Off again down the PDR to Batavia Downs where we headed across to meet up with the Weipa Road.  A few creek crossings but not a bad road until the Weipa Road where the corrugations started again.  Arrived in Weipa, set up camp, did some housekeeping duties and visited the supermarket for some essential supplies.  In the morning did a town and mine tour visiting one of the mine sites where the bauxite is loaded on to the haul trucks for delivery to the rail system and then to the port.  Bauxite mining is a relatively simple process with the top soil being removed and the bauxite is in a layer up to 5 metres deep which is dug out.  Weipa began as an aboriginal mission in 1898, bauxite was discovered in 1955  and mining commenced in 1961.  Weipa has a stable population of around 3500 people with most facilities being available.  The houses are basic but sell for up to a million dollars and rents are up around $800 per week.   Enjoyed dinner at Barramunchies and hoped for a nice sunset over the water but a bit too much cloud.  The Weipa Fishing Comp was on over the weekend and went along to see the weigh-in on the first night - some nice fish were pulled in.    

11th June 2017

Departed Weipa and travelled over the corrugated road to rejoin the PDR, continued on to our next stop at Archer River Roadhouse.  Settled in then went down and explored the river.  Quite lovely with a nice sandy bed and clean, clear water.    

12th June 2017.

Left Archer River and bounced over the road to Coen - the road seemed to have deteriorated over the last couple of weeks.  Arrived at the quarantine checkpoint at Coen to find that the hinge on our fridge had broken but hopefully will not cause us too many problems as it still seems to seal ok.  Continued on to Musgrave Telegraph Station to our overnight camp.   Some interesting memorabilia at the station - the old station house still stands even though almost destroyed by a cyclone not long after being built.  Some old graves out the front and a short walk down to Saltwater Creek.

13th June 2017

Dreaded the next strip of road through Hann River to Laura but turned out to not be as bad as expected - the grader had been through and the corrugations were not as bad as on the way up.  So glad to see the bitumen at Laura!!  Went out to see the Quinkan rock art paintings at Split Rock before settling into the community campgrounds at Laura and starting to remove some of the dust.

14th June 2017

Headed out of Laura on the bitumen retracing our route to the very productive area of Lakeland where we turned off towards Cooktown.  Finally found a suitable caravan park in Cooktown and settled in.  Still more dust in the car and van to conquer but we explored the attractive waterfront with its many monuments.  The most prominent is the Cook Monument dating from 1887 together with a cannon which was brought to Cooktown in 1885.  There is also a James Cook statue and a granite rock cairn on the foreshore which marks the spot where Cook beached the Endeavour on 18th June 1770.  A statue of Mick the Miner and a Chinese monument commemorate the Palmer Gold Rush.  Work is being carried out on the town's new entertainment precinct so it was not possible to continue around to the Powder Magazine.  Continued up the hill to Grassy Hill and Lighthouse where there are panoramic views of Cooktown, the Endeavour River and out to the Coral Sea.  The lighthouse was shipped to Cooktown in 1885 and is no longer in use but was saved from removal by the people of Cooktown.  Also visited the James Cook Museum which is housed in the restored Sisters of Mercy convent built in 1889.  A beautiful old building housing the anchor and cannon from the Endeavour as well as extracts from Cook's diary.  Also many displays from the Palmer River Gold Rush, the days as a convent boarding school and general history of the local area.  Well worth a visit.  Drove out to Finch Bay and went for a walk on the wide beach.  The next day went on a full day trip from Cooktown, firstly to the Endeavour Falls which are small but quite lovely situated behind a picturesque caravan park.  Then on to Isabella Falls which are just off the Battle Camp Road to Old Laura - quite a few swimmers here.  We then headed towards the coast passing through the aboriginal settlement of Hope Vale to the beach at Elim.  Enjoyed lunch here and a walk on the beach before making our way to the coloured sands which weren't quite as colourful as Fraser Island or Rainbow Beach.  The next day we headed south stopping at the eerie Black Mountains which are made up of huge black granite boulders - the only vegetation on them are fig trees which have sent their roots down great distances.  Continued on through Helenvale and Rossville along the Bloomfield River to the Bloomfield Falls at Wujal Wujal.  These falls are quite impressive and would be more so in the wet season. Stopped at the boat ramp on the Bloomfield River to see a big saltie sunning himself on the opposite bank.  According to the locals, there are hundreds of crocs in the Bloomfield. Continued on to Ayton for lunch the site of a sugar cane plantation established in 1882 and then out to Weary Bay where the Bloomfield River enters the sea.  Called in at the Lions Den Hotel at Helenvale for a drink at this iconic watering hole built in 1875.  The final outing for the day was to the Trevethen Falls - a goat track to get there and then a walk but definitely worth it - a lovely waterfall and swimming waterhole. The wind didn't stop blowing the whole time in Cooktown but one day was quite sunny so we went back up to Grassy Hill for some more photos, then to the Botanic Gardens which had a lovely display in the gallery of some of the sketches which were done at the time of Cook's visit from specimens taken by Banks and Solander.  Also visited the Cooktown cemetery which has graves dating back to 1874 including that of Mrs Watson and her son who perished from thirst after being attacked on Lizard Island by the aboriginals and setting off to sea in a cut down tank.

19th June 2017

Said goodbye to Cooktown and headed down to Lakeland where the number of banana plantations is amazing then to the Palmer River Roadhouse for morning tea.  A very attractive building with many displays of memorabilia from both the Palmer River goldfields and Maytown.  Continued down the Mulligan Highway through Mount Carbine and Mount Molloy to our next stop at Mareeba.  Pulled into the Rodeo Grounds and continued with our dust removal efforts and  housekeeping.  Did a day trip from here calling in at Skybury Coffee Plantation for coffee and scones, the Tolga Woodworks (some lovely craft work here) then out through Kairi to Lake Tinaroo.  Then to Atherton on a cool misty day, visiting the crystal caves with their amazing displays of crystals from all over the world.  The final stop for the day was Mt Uncle Distillery where we sampled some of their liqueurs and spirits.  We also visited the Mareeba Info Centre and Heritage Museum which has a great display on the history of tobacco growing in this area, the Mt. Mulligan Mining disaster, history of Tinaroo Dam etc. etc. Very well done.  Also enjoyed a game of golf where we shared the fairways with hundreds of kangaroos and lots of curlews and other birdlife.  Another day trip beckoned, this time to the Yungaburra markets - a full morning was spent here browsing the art and craft and produce stalls before lunch.  Yungaburra is a lovely little town with brightly coloured gardens and hanging pots making quite a spectacle.  Next we visited Lake Eacham and Lake Barrine - two unique volcanic lakes with no inflows or outflows.  The water was lovely and clear but a bit cool for a dip.  The twin kauri pines at Lake Barrine are quite spectacular.  We then returned to Yungaburra for some platypus spotting and were lucky enough to spot a couple of these elusive creatures before making our way to the curtain fig which is a large strangler fig with many aerial roots.  Then on to Gallo Dairyland in time to see the cows being milked before we enjoyed a cheese tasting. Yum!  A very enjoyable day.

26th June 2017

After a very enjoyable time in Mareeba, we said goodbye to Ian and Cherie and headed up the range to Atherton and then further through the showers and fog up the windy road to Ravenshoe the highest town in Queensland at 920m.  Found a spot at the Railway Reserve which is a camping area run by volunteers and even though their steam train is not running at the moment, the camping grounds are a credit to all concerned.  Ravenshoe was originally a logging town but when the whole area was World Heritage listed in 1988, logging ceased and the town has steadily declined. We did a day trip to the Little Millstream Falls, then to the Millstream Falls which are both very attractive falls and well worth visiting.  We visited Windy Hill Wind Farm which was built in 2000 and produces enough power to supply 3500 households. Continued on to Millaa Millaa and the Millaa Millaa Falls where some brave? souls were enjoying a dip.  Did a circuit following the Old Palmerston Hwy. scenic drive which was a lovely drive through farmlands back to Ravenshoe. Another day trip was out to Tumoulin then along the highest declared road in Qld at 1143m. to Herberton. Visited the Herberton Mining Museum which has some great displays including a scale working model of a tin dredge.  There is also a historical village at Herberton but we did not have enough time to see this properly so will leave for another visit.  Herberton was the first town on the tableland with tin being discovered in 1875 but not mined until 1880. Mining has all but ceased now but Herberton is an attractive town being listed on the National Heritage Register.

29th June 2017

Left Ravenshoe and made our way down the range through Innot Hot Springs and Mt Garnet to Mt Surprise where we set up camp at Bedrock Caravan Park.  We were just in time to see the Savannahlander rail motor arrive in town on its way to Forsayth.  We went on a day trip past Jardine's Lagoon to Einasleigh and the very impressive Copperfield Gorge.  The next day was our whole day Undara experience from Bedrock.  Firstly, we visited the Kalkani volcano crater and went for a walk around the rim, then to the lava caves. Altogether we visited seven lava tubes including the Archway, Wind Tunnel and Stephenson Cave.  Some of the caves were totally dark when all the torches were turned off with only little bent wing bats for company.  Lunch was at Undara Resort and we enjoyed morning tea and a lovely view of the surrounding area and extinct volcanoes from our afternoon tea spot.  We had to do some scrambling and rock hopping at some of the least visited caves but altogether a great experience.

2 July 2017

Retraced our route to the Kennedy Highway then down to the Lynd Junction before turning onto the Gregory Development Road to a free camp at Greenvale. Greenvale's heyday was in the 70's and 80's when nickel was mined and transported to Yabulu on some of the longest trains to run on Australia's tracks.  Mining ceased in the early 90's but the town still has the infrastructure from the boom times and about 150 people reside here.  The train tracks were pulled up in the 2000's.

3 July 2017.

Moved on down the Gregory Development Road then turned on to Hervey Range Road before making our way to Mt Low to set up camp for a few days with Anita and Scott.  Anita was our guide and took us to lots of the local sights including Castle Hill (great views including of the V8 track), the Strand and Kissing Point.  We also spent a morning at Jezzine Barracks - the military museum which was very interesting.  A game of golf was enjoyed? at the Willows Course which was quite poorly maintained (the greens were some of the worst we have come across anywhere).  A day trip was made to Ingham and then up the windy road to the Wallaman Falls - the longest single drop waterfall in Australia at 268m. Quite spectacular.  We also spent a day on Magnetic Island which was magical.  We hired an open top car and visited all the beaches - Horseshoe Bay, Arcadia, Picnic Bay and drove out to West Point for views back to the mainland.  Hiked up to Hawkings Point for some great views of the island.  Returned the car and walked back from Arcadia to Nelly Bay to catch the ferry back to the mainland.  Great Day and a place we would like to return to!  Also went for a drive out to Qld. Nickel at Yabulu which is mothballed with only security and maintenance on site but you are quite able to drive around until security arrive to ask questions!  Visited Rowes Bay - a nice beach north of the Strand on the way to Pallarenda.

11th July 2017

Time to leave after our lovely time in Townsville.  Thanks Anita and Scott, guard dog Pax and Roger and Mickey.  We headed south towards Charters Towers and found a bush camp at Bivouac Junction on the Burdekin River.  Drove into the Towers to visit the cemetery and find the grave of Uncle Charlie in the military section.  Also went up to Tower Hill and walked around town but we had done all the touristy things before so not much else to explore.  The camp had the state of origin on a big screen in the camp kitchen so we enjoyed the game (well one of us did).

13th July 2017

Left Bivouac Junction and made our way through Charters Towers on a rather boring drive to Belyando Crossing where we made a lunch stop.  Continued on to Clermont where we made our way to Theresa Creek Dam for a couple of nights. A top spot with almost all spots having a view of the dam and very popular with people chasing redclaw and fish.  A lot of bird life and Russ enjoyed a paddle around the dam in the kayak as well as cooking tea on the fire. Recommend this spot.

15th July 2017

Time to leave as our batteries were struggling.  Back through Clermont, down to Capella then on to Emerald. Caught up with  Neil and Cathy, went out to dinner then Neil took us for a tour of the coal mine at Ensham where he is now working.  Safety is obviously a high priority with drug and alcohol testing before anyone being allowed on site. Russ and Cathy picked a red ball!!!  Very interesting - only one dragline operating there now and the majority of the work is now carried out underground.  The mine covers a vast area and Neil showed us the areas that have been rehabilitated and the areas that are being worked on now. Extended our stay as we could not get into Carnarvon until Friday.  Played golf, Cathy gave us a foot detox and Russ enjoyed a Bowen treatment.  Also managed to get our TV antenna replaced so we now have TV again.

21st July 2017

Left Emerald and made our way through Springsure and Rolleston (morning tea stop) to the Carnarvon National Park.  The road into the gorge has improved since my last visit 25 years ago with the road being bitumened to Takarakka. Set up and walked up to the lookout behind the park for some great views.  Enjoyed happy hour and a talk about the various walks available.  The next morning we set out for one of the main walks - the path has improved considerably but the views are the same - quite stunning. Crossed the creek several times and made our way to the Art Gallery for an impressive display of aboriginal art.  Then on to Ward's Canyon - a lovely little waterfall then further into the canyon where the King Ferns grow.  The next side path was to the Ampitheatre and a climb up the steep steps (replacing the ladder) and through the narrow opening into the aptly named Ampitheatre.  Didn't try out the acoustics although some people were tempted.  Moss Garden was the final stop a lovely spot full of moss, ferns and dripping water.  Quite obvious here how the water percolates through the sandstone until it reaches the shale and then makes it way out - in this spot creating a moss garden before making its way into the creek. Well satisfied with our 14km walk.  The next day was a rest day having morning tea with Ollie and Kev at their camp at Sandstone and then Ken and Sandra arrived on their way home from the west.  Still a bit more walking to do so the next day walked to Baloon Cave for some more rock art, then into Mickey's Creek Gorge - a lovely walk along the crystal clear creek.  The final stop was into the Rock Pool where we were lucky enough to see a platypus having a play around in the water.  Enjoyed a fish dinner with Ken and Sandra for our final night in this magical place.

25th July 2017

Retraced our steps to Rolleston (another morning tea stop) then continued on the Dawson Highway to the Dawson River Rest Area just outside Moura for our overnight stop.

26th July 2017

Took a back road through the mining areas of Moura and Kianga to Theodore.  The town looks quite attractive after the devastating floods which forced the evacuation of the town and is obviously quite popular with grey nomads. From Theodore headed across to Cracow past the Evolution Gold Mine for our morning tea stop.  Brophy's Cracow Hotel is the only building in the main street not boarded up. Continued on to Eidsvold, Mundubbera and Gayndah where we stocked up on citrus before stopping for the night at Zonhoven Park beside the Burnett River.

27th July 2017

Left Gayndah, through Ban Ban Springs, Tansey, Kilkivan to home.  After a very enjoyable 11 weeks away, good to be home although time to start cleaning the van and car!!!